peinture sur pierre

Bon je viens de trouver sa.
Voici les instructions pour faire un titi lapin sur une pierre.

Si sa vous tentes vous me le dites et je mets le reste des photos qui vont avec les instructions.


Once you find a promising stone, prepare the surface with a good scrubbing and allow it to dry. Beginners will find it easier to paint on a stone with a smooth or fine-grained surface. It’s much more difficult to achieve the kind of detail you’ll want on a rough or pitted surface.

Select a smooth stone similar in shape to a large baking potato. The stone should have a flat bottom so it will sit without rolling over. The image to the left shows a variety of stones shapes that will work.

While the idea rabbit rock is oval as show here, there are many variations that will also work. Your stone may be taller and narrower; it may have a blunt, somewhat squared shape or taper off slightly at one end. The most important features are a flat bottom for stability and overall symmetry of shape.

Using your largest brush, cover all but the very bottom of your stone with a coat of black paint. If the stone dries with a grayish cast, apply a second, heavier coat. When the paint is dry you can begin sketching in basic shapes. Imagine your stone is divided into thirds (View A). The first third encompasses the jowl area, and the back third is the haunch area.

With a sharpened pencil or white chalk, lightly sketch in these guidelines. Sketch curving jowl lines on both sides of the head end, and check from the top to be sure that both jowls are about the same. At the top of the stone (View B) these two lines meet to form the forehead. The ears begin at the top of the forehead, extending backward toward the middle of the stone (View B).

Now move to the face (View C). Imagine the front of your stone is divided into quarters. The bottoms of the eyes will rest on a bisecting horizontal line. Eyes that are too large in proportion to the stone will give your bunny a “cartoon” look, so keep them small. Allow a minimum of one and one-half eye widths between them. Check for the symmetry by lining up a pencil with the bottom of the eye circles.

If you aren’t satisfied with your guidelines at any point, simply dab them away with a damp rag or go over them with more black paint and try again.

Next, center a nose triangle along the vertical bisecting line. It shouldn’t be much wider across the top than one of the eyes. Turn your stone around and add an oval-shaped tail to the rear end (View D). Tuck two sets of paws along the bottom edge of either side. Now you’re ready to begin painting.

Fill in the paws and tail areas with white, using enough paint for solid coverage. The paws and tail look fluffier if you feather your strokes outward along the edges. Next switch to a smaller brush to paint in two short white lines along the bottom angles of the nose.

Outline the basic shape of the ears. Paint a second, parallel line inside the upper edge of each ear to indicate a flap.

Still using white paint and your small brush, stroke in a series of delicate “eyelash” lines. Begin at the outside upper corner of each eye and stroke in a long, curved line extending nearly to the base of the ear. Add more lashes, shortening them as you work toward the inside of each eye. Make a fringe of shorter, curving lashes along the bottom edges of both eyes. Leave an outline of black between these lash lines and the eye circle.

Fill in both eye circles with Burnt Sienna. Keep the eyes neat and round. If they look uneven, or if you accidentally paint over the eyelash lines, let your brown paint dry, then use black to re-circle and redefine the eyes later. Add a touch of golden yellow paint to the Burnt Sienna on your palette and blend to get a lighter shade of brown.

With this color form a half-circle inside the bottom portion of each eye. This will give the eyes a more lifelike depth. When the eyes are dry, use black paint to make two oval irises. They should touch the top of each eye circle.

Work on the ears next. Clean your brush well and mix small amounts of red with white until you have a medium shade of pink. Add just enough gold to soften it to a pale fleshtone. Use this color to fill in the insides of the ears, not quite meeting the white outlines you painted earlier. Leave the ear flap unpainted for now. Add Burnt Sienna to darken the fleshtone on your palette. Use this new color to create a shadowed effect along the upper edges of the ears just below the ear flaps.

You’re now ready to paint in the fur lines that will give your rabbit its soft, realistic look. Fur lines should be as thin and delicate as possible. Dilute the paint enough to flow on easily but not to the point of transparency.

You’ll want your fur lines to dry crisp and clear. Begin the fur by making a series of short, perpendicular strokes following the curved line of the jowl.

Do a second row of longer strokes just inside the first set. Allow each line to taper into a point by easing the pressure on the brush as you lift. Create a shingled effect, allowing your rows to overlap slightly. Vary the direction and size of your strokes for realism.

Three or four sets of overlapping fur lines should bring you close to the bottom eyelashes. Be sure to stop before reaching these lash lines so that some dark contrast remains around the eye areas. Repeat the process with the other jowl, then move on to the haunches.

Fill in the haunch with rows of strokes that angle out like spokes on a wheel. Start on the outside and work toward the center of each haunch. Overlap your strokes to create a shingled effect.

Next, move to your rabbit’s back. Start between the ears, leaving a narrow area of black paint surrounding the ears for contrast. Work back toward the tail, varying the length and angle of your stokes.

You may indicate shoulders by allowing your strokes to form an M-shaped row behind the head. Skip a space and start a fresh row of fur farther back. Leave several other similar spaces showing as you continue to work toward the back of the stone. Stop just short of the tail. Allow your lines to dwindle in number as you move down the body so that much of the bottom remains plain black above the paws.

The nose, muzzle and forehead are next. Darken a little deep pink paint with at bit of Burnt Sienna. Fill in the center of the nose triangle, leaving an outline of black surrounding it.

Clean your brush and switch to white paint. Make a series of tiny, splinter-sized strokes along the outsides of the ears to make them softer and more natural looking. Scatter some longer whisker lines in the pink part of each ear.

The forehead fur begins just above the nose and fans upward and outward in uneven, shingled rows. Stop before you reach the base of the ears and make one final row of dense, short lines along the top of the head. Leave an area of black showing between these lines and the base of the ears for contrast.

Define the muzzle area below the nose by stroking in two matching circular shapes of tiny fur lines on either side. Leave a narrow line of dark paint between each muzzle circle. Stroke in a semicircle of white fur for the chin beneath the muzzle, also leaving a narrow line of black between the chin and muzzle. These dark lines form the mouth in an anchor shape. Go over the mouth lines with black if necessary.

Switch to gold paint and highlight the outside edges of the muzzle with more tiny fur lines. Also scatter gold fur lines among the white fur elsewhere on your rabbit. These will add realism to the fur. Take the time to put a few gold furs in every area of the bunny’s coat, including the forehead. Add a touch of Burnt Sienna to the gold and stroke this color back along the ear flaps, but leave plenty of black showing.

With more Burnt Sienna, create a fan-shaped set of lines just above the nose triangle and encircling the outside edges of the muzzle. Add a touch of black to the Burnt Sienna and use this darker shade to dot the muzzle with whisker follicles.

Rinse out your brush and carefully mix white paint with just enough water so it will flow in distinct lines. Draw out three or four long, curving whiskers from each side of the muzzle. Finally, dab a dot of white paint in the iris of each eye. The sparkle will make your bunny come alive. Be sure to place the dot in the same spot in both eyes or your bunny may appear or goggle-eyed.

Look your rabbit over from every angle. Do you have enough fur lines for a soft, fuzzy look? If not, add a few. If some of your fur lines have run together to form a distracting blotch, use a hairline stroke of black to redefine them. You may want to bring out the whiskers by carefully underlining them with a narrow, parallel line of black paint.

When you’re satisfied, turn the stone over to sign and date with a marker or laundry pen. A light application of spray-on polyurethane seals and brings out the rich colors of your piece.

Ben oui ça serait tentant Jojo, mes enfants ont ramassé pleins de pierres quand on a été en Gaspésie cet été. J'avais pas vraiment d'idée quoi en faire. Mais j'pense que ça serait bien ce que tu as trouvé.

Merci Jojo, ça presse pas avec Noel qui s'en viens pas le temps tout de suite. :soleil:

Puis pour la traduction tu peux laisser faire, je m'arrange assez bien puis quand ça fait pas Papou il me dépanne.

Merci Merci Jojo, c'est sur que je vais mettre des photos du résultat.

Jojo j'ai une petite question pour toi, j'ai des grenouilles qui vont à l'extérieur et je dois les repeindre. D'après toi les petits pots style Americana si je recouvre d'un clear extérieur est-ce que ça va résister à la pluie?

J'ai aucune idée du genre de peinture qu'il y a dessus mais y a une chose qui est sur, elle est pas de grosse qualité. Les grenouilles c'est des bons marchés achetés chez Wall Mart. Je pensais la sablé pour enlever l'excès et peut-être mettre un genre d'apprêt celui que j'ai en main c'est la marque JO Sonja's c'est écrit All Purpose Sealer.

mamou a écrit:J'ai aucune idée du genre de peinture qu'il y a dessus mais y a une chose qui est sur, elle est pas de grosse qualité. Les grenouilles c'est des bons marchés achetés chez Wall Mart. Je pensais la sablé pour enlever l'excès et peut-être mettre un genre d'apprêt celui que j'ai en main c'est la marque JO Sonja's c'est écrit All Purpose Sealer.

Très bonne idée de la sabler un peu.

La réussite seras encore plus belle.

tu peut utiliser le All Purpose Sealer.

C,est celui que j,utilise moi aussi.

N'oublie surtout pas de tous vernir ensuite.
Un vernis extérireur ( Acrylique )si possible.

Moi je mais de 3 à 5 couches et tu attend une journée complet avant dans mettre une autre.

Sa donne le temps au vernis de bien sècher et de faire une bonne épaiseur pour bien protéger ta pièce.

Bonne chance.
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Maude 8mois

Jojo, le vernis extérieur que j'ai c'est les petits pots DécoArt c'est marquer vernis extérieur et intérieur, est-ce que ça peut faire?

mamou a écrit:Jojo, le vernis extérieur que j'ai c'est les petits pots DécoArt c'est marquer vernis extérieur et intérieur, est-ce que ça peut faire?

Merci Merci Jojo t'es pas mal fine. :soleil:

C'était OK :soleil:

Quand je les aurai fini je vais tenter de les montrer, c'est la première fois que je m'embarque dans des projets comme ça.

C'était OK :soleil:

Quand je les aurai fini je vais tenter de les montrer, c'est la première fois que je m'embarque dans des projets comme ça.

Pourquoi les photos des pierres de chat ne paraissent pas???est-ce seulement moi??